Historic Downtown Covington is a Holiday Wonderland

There is no place more charming during the holidays than a historic small town. Especially in Louisiana, where religious celebrations are infused with that special blend of the state’s many cultural influences. From beautiful, twinkling light displays and festivals to shopping in quaint boutiques and festive dinners in cozy cafés and eateries, there’s no better time to visit small-town Louisiana. This season, we have our hearts (and stomachs) set on Covington. Nestled on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain, Covington is a bedroom community of New Orleans located 40 minutes away on the Bogue Falaya River in St. Tammany Parish. With its lively Historic Downtown St. John District, bursting with shops, bars, more than 25 restaurants and art galleries, it’s easy to walk to holiday shopping destinations, fortify yourself throughout the day and enjoy a night on the town, all without getting in the car. Bonus: Parking is free in Covington’s ox lots, named after the tradespeople who’d bring their goods to town and park their oxen on the squares. We started our day of retail therapy and foodie fun at the Saturday farmer’s market.

Upon arrival, my husband Mark and I felt transported to the small-town fairs of our youth. A five-piece string band was posted up in the gazebo while families enjoyed lunch at nearby tables and shopped local vendors’ wares. We beelined for the Credo Farms stand where handmade soaps, candles and preserves caught my magpie eye. Holiday hostess gifts, unlocked. Produce, meat, coffee and food stalls were also in abundance. Next, we walked to the Tammany Trace trailhead to duck into Rosemary’s Closet, a vintage apparel and record store, but alas, we learned the hard way that it is appointment only. We suffer so you don’t have to.

While we didn’t have time for it on this trip, we have been known to haul our bikes across Lake Pontchartrain and hit the Tammany Trace hike and bike trail. The 31-mile asphalt trail is scenic (and wheelchair accessible) fun for the entire family. No bikes? No problem. Rent one at Brooks’ Bike Shop of Covington (they even have two- and four-seater surreys). Turkey overindulgence? The Tammany Trace is your friend. Outdoorsy types will also want to carve out time for kayaking on the Bogue Falaya River. Rent kayaks at Brooks’ or at The Chimes restaurant (Covington and Mandeville locations) through Canoe & Trail Adventures (which also rents bikes).

By now, it was time for our 1 p.m. lunch reservations at The Greyhound (reservations aren’t required, but we didn’t want to take chances). Housed in a former Greyhound bus station, the upscale casual Greyhound is owned by the same husband-and-wife, three-time James Beard Award-nominated chef/owners as nearby (and much-lauded) Del Porto Ristorante. We started with the wood oven-roasted feta. The feta is served in a tiny, hot castiron skillet still bubbling from the oven. It is swimming in olive oil with tomatoes, herbs, olives and garlic and served with an enormous house-made pita. Please get this dish or you will regret it. That’s not a threat; I just really need everyone to enjoy this decadent, savory delight. As is his custom, Mark got the burger (featuring ground short rib, chuck and sirloin, caramelized onions, cremini mushrooms, a crispy Parmesan creation and other goodies piled high on a brioche bun) and judging from the silence other than post-bite blurts about the flavor of the meat, it’s a winner. I opted for the döner kebab, which is a wrap filled with house-made beef and lamb gyro loaf, red cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, radish and red onions with an addictive garlic sauce. (I recommend sharing this, because it’s a lot of food.) Of note, The Greyhound has takeaway on offer for Thanksgiving.

Full and quite possibly foundered, we made the short trek to Lee Lane for my favorite type of shopping, books. (If you’ve been reading this column for long, you know you can always expect a trip to the local bookstore and record store. The latter of which you’ll find further down in this missive.) Ox Lot Books is straight out of a cozy romance or mystery. The family-owned book shop is in an actual cottage, which, on the outside a white picket fence and cheerful light blue with white trim ooze historical charm; while inside, the moody, dark blue vibes give enchanted (and possibly haunted) library. An enormous brick hearth, ample seating areas and reading lounge (home of a regular silent book club) invite visitors to sit and read a spell and the mix of new and used books (including a rack of freebies) keep the love of reading accessible. Books are the main event, but gifts also abound, such as cheeky, literary-themed mugs, tarot cards, candles and bookmarks, of course.

Lee Lane is also home to various antique and art stores, restaurants and, on the corner of N. Florida and Rutland, The English Tea Room. Plan ahead and work the Christmas High Tea at the tea room into your trip. It runs from December through the first week of January.

No trip to Covington is complete without a visit to H.J. Smith & Sons General Store and Museum on nearby Columbia Street. Family-owned and operated since 1876, it is part hardware store, part museum and not to be missed. Santa visits the store during the holidays, so check on his schedule before you go.

Additional shops worth a stop while you’re in town are Reenie & Miggin’s Downtown Mercantile on Lee Lane and Black Flower Apparel and Records on Columbia Street. We found a host of Christmas gifts at the former, including an adorable, sparkly gator ornament, as well as holiday-themed children’s PJs, dish towels and other kitchen items and holiday candles. At Black Flower, it’ll be easy to find a gift for the vinyl lover in your life. They also have super-soft T-shirts with cool designs.

Covington has more specialty coffee shops than anticipated, including a few that roast their own, such as Abita Roasting Co. We stopped in at Haven Coffee and Cocktails on North New Hampshire Street, which makes its coffee drinks with Northshore Specialty Coffee. Metaphorically, kill two holiday birds with one stone by grabbing a latte (or a drink) and a seat, plus a pound of Northshore beans for your favorite coffee connoisseur.

If your visit to Covington includes an overnight stay, do book rooms at the grand Southern Hotel. The circa-1907 Mission-style hotel was originally designed as a retreat for taking to the waters via nearby mineral springs. Later, it served as a sanitarium and, still later, was home to government offices. In 2014, after extensive restoration by preservationist new owners, it returned to its roots, reopening as an ultra-luxe hotel. The on-site French (and locally inspired) restaurant, The Gloriette, has one of the most beautiful interiors we’ve ever seen. The food is superb, too, and the restaurant is open for Thanksgiving dining.

As for us, our shopping adventure had come to an end, so we made our way back across the lake with our holiday list checked off and a nice little caffeine buzz to keep us alert on the Causeway.

Holiday Events

From light displays to concerts and festivals there is a lot in and around Covington during the holidays. Go to visitthenorthshore.com for details.

Abita Springs

Abita Springs Town Hall, Abita Springs Opry Christmas.

Covington

12 Days of Christmas light displays, starts in December and ends in early January, Historic Downtown Covington.

Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra, Classical Christmas: Messiah, December 5, Fuhrmann Auditorium.

Mandeville

Holiday of Lights on Koop Drive, December, Tammany Trace Trailhead.

Menorah Lighting, late December, Mandeville Trailhead.

St. Timothy’s free, annual Christmas concerts, December 14.

Slidell

Bayou Christmas in December, Heritage Park.

Bayou Christmas under the Stars, throughout December, Griffith Park.

Christmas on Front, throughout December, Olde Towne Slidell.

USMC New Orleans Reserve Band Holiday Concert, Harbor Center.

Northshore Community Orchestra Holiday Concert, Slidell Auditorium, December 18.