New Braunfels Brims with German Influences and Artsy Hill Country Soul

Gruene Hall

With a radio station that plays polka songs and waltzes, bakeries that turn out Munich-worthy strudel, oompah bands blaring from the Main Square’s bandstand, a lingering aroma of grilled sausages wafting through the air and residents capable of conversing in a 19th-century dialect known as Texas German, New Braunfels isn’t the cowboy and tumbleweed Texas some imagine. Instead, it surprises visitors with extraordinary vestiges of bygone German settlers. They’ve left their mark with Teutonic architectural elements, an Oktoberfest-inspired annual fete (Wurstfest), and a Texas-meets-Bavaria cultural bravado that manifests in local traditions today. Affable and cozily nostalgic, New Braunfels, at the confluence of two rivers, set between Austin and San Antonio, is also a threshold to astonishing nature and the vineyard-rife Texas Hill Country.

Day One

Morning – Check into your hotel, newly renovated Hacienda del Rio. It occupies prime real estate on the banks of the Guadalupe River in Gruene, a one-time cotton town, now a storied historic district in New Braunfels. You’ll find it minutes from downtown. With a leafy “beach,” stylish guest rooms, a pickleball court and a romantic swimming pool, the boutique Hacienda del Rio exudes South Texas chic and local gravitas.

Launch your day at Naegelin’s, Texas’ oldest bakery, and a veritable rite of passage for visitors. After sampling savory kolaches or peach strudel, wander Landa Park’s verdant 50 acres. It’s an oasis that holds playgrounds, golf, a mini train, paddle boats and historic Comal Springs. Alternatively, explore the Sophienburg Museum, a trove of local history that tells the story of the first German immigrants, who followed Prince Carl of Solms-Braunfels to this Eden-like region.

Mozie’s kebabs

Afternoon- Back in Gruene (pronounced Green), order a longneck beer at Gristmill River Restaurant & Bar, a feisty haven on the banks of the Guadalupe River. Try Gristmill’s Texas Torpedoes, sinfully deep-fried, bacon-wrapped jalapeños, stuffed with cheese. Work lunch off with a shopping spree in either downtown New Braunfels or Gruene, both of which flaunt pleasant shops and galleries, awash in curiosities and unique bounty. Arts and craft lovers should plan their trip for the third weekend of the month to enjoy Gruene Market Days, an impressive shopping fete that features some 100 artisans.

Evening – Do the Texas two step on the soulful floors of Gruene Hall, a landmark dance and music venue established in 1878. With past performers as famous as Willie Nelson and Jerry Jeff Walker, Gruene Hall offers live music daily, as well as special events from dance lessons to Friday Afternoon Club, a vivified happy hour. Mozie’s, just across from Gruene Hall, is a popular, casual  hotspot for pre- or post-performance suppers or snacks.

Gristmill’s bacon- wrapped shrimp

Day 2

Morning – Do brunch near your hotel at The Birdhouse, which serves classic dishes with a Southern riff — think chicken-fried Benedict capped with jalapeño hollandaise. Nourished, you’ll be ready to take on the rivers. Two converge in New Braunfels. Float either the spring-fed Comal, which undulates through town or the wilder Guadalupe, where you’ll also see paddleboarders and kayakers. Equipment rental companies can be found throughout town.

Afternoon – Take a break for some German cuisine. Either gobble up bratwurst at Wurst in Gruene, a food truck, or devour quintessential schnitzel at renowned Krause’s Cafe, beloved by locals. Return to the river. If you tried the Comal, switch to “the Guad.”(Don’t forget your sunscreen.) Or, drive into the Hill Country to experience some of the region’s boutique wineries. La Cruz de Comal Wines and Dry Comal Creek Vineyards lie less than 15 minutes from downtown.

Hacienda del Rio

Evening – Grab an early dinner at one of New Braunfels’ stellar breweries, then meet up for a spooky, 90-minute walk with  New Braunfels Ghost Tours. Eradicate those goosebumps with a grand finale nightcap at Sidecar, a speakeasy-like bar at the Prince Solms Inn. Moody jazz music and an inventive “After Dinner Cocktail” menu seal the deal.