A Quieter Beach

Dauphin Island lies only 3 miles south of Mobile Bay and a short drive from downtown Mobile. It’s an even shorter jaunt from the exquisite Bellingrath Gardens and its dramatic flowering gardens. Yet, the 14-mile-long barrier island with its small-town charm — only 1,300 permanent residents — and pristine beaches and parks seems a world away.

Day One

Morning – What lies beneath Mobile Bay and other Alabama waterways is on display at the Alabama Aquarium on the east end of Dauphin Island. The facility, formerly named the Estuarium, highlights four key habitats of coastal Alabama: the Mobile-Tensaw River Delta, Mobile Bay, the Barrier Islands of which Dauphin is one and the northern Gulf of Mexico. Visitors may view underwater creatures behind glass, touch a few such as the cownose stingrays or watch naturists feed the inhabitants. The Alabama Aquarium is part of the Dauphin Island Sea Lab which studies Alabama’s marine life as well as teaches a variety of students in marine education. Special events are offered regularly so check website for details.

Afternoon – Accommodations run the gamut here — small family-owned hotels, motels, condominiums, campgrounds and private homes as rentals. First, determine what your needs are, whether a romantic night for two or a large rental for families, then peruse the handy list the town of Dauphin Island assembled at townofdauphinisland.org/where-to-stay.

Evening – Catch the sun disappearing over the Gulf at dusk and you’ll see why Dauphin Island has been designated the “Sunset Capital of Alabama.” One of the finest viewing spots is at Islanders Restaurant & Bar with its indoor and outdoor seating and a second floor of circular windows overlooking the Gulf waters. Islanders serves up fresh Gulf seafood, so order a seafood platter, craft cocktail and savor the show.

Day Two

Morning – The roadside trailhead is unassuming so visitors may expect simple hikes through woods to a Gulf beach. But the Audubon Bird Sanctuary spans 164 acres of varied terrain, including maritime forests, marshes, pristine dunes, Gaillard Lake and yes, the Gulf seaside. It’s a peaceful walk through nature and the diverse ecosystems of the Gulf barrier islands, but a birder’s haven as well. Neotropical migrant birds rest here after a flight across the Gulf from Central and South America each spring and heading back in fall so bring your binoculars. Park at 109 Bienville Blvd. on the eastern end of the island and start exploring.

Afternoon – Lace up those walking shoes again after pausing for lunch or gathering items from The Carriage Wine & Market for a picnic. But don’t worry, it’s an easy hike through Indian Shell Mound Park, where Native American tribes fished and roasted oysters around 1100 to 1550 AD. Look for shell middens and ancient live oaks in this park on the National Register of Historic Places. Be on the lookout for unique birds for Shell Mound Park as part of the Alabama Birding Trails.

For more recent history, Fort Gaines remains on the eastern side of the island as a remnant of the Civil War Battle of Mobile Bay. Roam the preserved circa 1821 brick fort and you might hear U.S. Admiral David Farragut shout his now famous order in 1864, “Damn the torpedoes … Full speed ahead!” Visitors may enjoy Civil War-era cannons, a blacksmith shop, museum, tunnels, guided tours and special events.

Evening – Once is never enough so return for another round of the brilliance of Gulf sunsets. Enjoy Dauphin’s four public beaches anytime for sunbathing, swimming and beachcombing but stay at dusk for nature’s dramatic performance. West End Beach, Bienville Beach and Middle Beach lie closer to commercial attractions and East End Beach near the Alabama Aquarium and Fort Gaines face Mobile Bay as well as the Gulf.

Don’t Forget

These live oaks once sheltered the wild goats grazing on the island, and it’s thought the goats would climb the trees at night to escape alligators. Today, the Goat Trees of Dauphin Island offer shelter to migratory birds. Dauphin Island Bird Sanctuary now owns the unique and historic wooded area featuring “goat” oaks on Cadillac Avenue east of Indian Shell Mound Park. It’s a short walk from the park.