Exploring the Vibrant Dining and Cultural Scene of Hammond

All photos by Melanie Warner Spencer

The infatuation, as so many do, began over a cup of coffee. Specifically, an oat milk latte made with precisely measured and pulled espresso using thoughtfully sourced and expertly roasted beans. Luma Coffee — housed in the circa-1890s historic Central Rexall Drugs in Hammond and one of downtown’s oldest buildings — is one of several delights I was surprised to find in the small city (albeit largest in Tangipahoa Parish). As I wandered around Hammond’s spectacularly preserved downtown with its boundless brick buildings and nearby movie set-worthy, historic Illinois Central Railroad train depot (a working Amtrak stop), I played the age-old “what would it be like to live here” game. Yes, I Googled housing prices and yes, there are some great deals.

To disabuse myself of gingerbread Victorian cottage daydreams, I ducked into Batter  — an adorable, pink-infused bakery  — to grab a huge, puffy strawberries and cream cookie filled with cream cheese frosting. (Y’all, this gigantic dang cookie was so rich I could only eat half.)

It is easy to see why Hammond won the Great American Main Street Award in 2022. The Railroad Park highlights the city’s history as a stop on the Great Northern Railroad, while also serving as a gorgeous community space with a colorful mural, stage for live entertainment, inviting benches and a clock nestled amid flourishing flowers and saplings. This space gives off major town square vibes, while also offering up loads of railroad history via markers along the long brick wall enclosing the park.

Nearby Cate Square Park, with its gazebo and wealth of stately oak trees, and the residential and commercial architecture from the late 1800s and early 1900’s mixed with midcentury buildings was not helping my case of I-should-move-here-itis. If that wasn’t enough, Southeastern Louisiana University provides an influx of students that contributes to a youthful energy. 

That vitality is furthered in bars like the new Eclipse, next door (and connected to) the equally new seafood restaurant, Lighthouse Coastal Brasserie. Kaleb, a bartender at One Thirteen, the chic American bistro owned by the same group as Lighthouse and Eclipse, was mixing up one of the best mocktails I’ve had in ages (a non-alcoholic version of the passion fruit martini, made with passion fruit purée, lemon juice, simple syrup and egg white for the foam on top) and mentioned that everyone hits the new watering hole after work. Eclipse would be right at home in Miami, with its reservable sections with varying styles of home-like decor and planetary names including the Moon Room.

Downtown Hammond is infinitely walkable, with the parks, bars, eateries and boutiques just a street or two away from one another. So, after a lunch of fresh, pan-roasted drum with jasmine rice and colorful vegetables at Lighthouse, I popped into Music Express, which has a solid new and used vinyl cache and more CDs than I’ve seen anywhere since the early 2000s. Up next was a visit to Bayou Booksellers, which has a cozy, sofa-strewn half of the store dedicated to regional and national fiction and nonfiction, as well as an incredible selection of gifts and a candy section specializing in nostalgic brands, such as Boston Baked Beans (candy-coated peanuts). There are also a fair number of women’s clothing boutiques downtown, so while I was on a mission for books and music, it would be easy to wrap up your Christmas gift buying list and get an outfit for your holiday party in an afternoon downtown.

Having walked off my half cookie and lunch, I was considering a stop at Eddie’s Famous Frozen Custard, recommended by every person I talked to while on my shopping spree, but the parking lot was packed and the drive through line around the building. That would have to wait until another time, because I was due at the Historic Michabelle Inn. The grand, circa-1907 Greek Revival-meets-Queen Anne Michabelle Inn sports 14-foot ceilings and a central chimney that serves fireplaces upstairs and down, including the massive lobby hearth. French Chef Michel Marcais and his wife Isabel bought the home and opened it as an inn, which has been in operation since 1998. In 2011, the Marcaises sold Michabelle to their daughter Sandra Bradley and her husband, David Bradley, who continue to expand the inn’s accommodations. In addition to the inn, Hammond also has various national chain hotels and VRBO options, but if you are an RV enthusiast, check out Deadbeat Brewing’s waterfront view accommodations via Harvest Hosts.

In Hammond, with its mix of residential and commercial architecture from the late 1800s and early 1900’s mixed with midcentury buildings, preservation is paramount. The city has done such a great job in fact, it won the Great American Main Street Award in 2022. Its picturesque historic Illinois Central Railroad train depot (a working Amtrak stop), plethora of boutiques and restaurants and verdant downtown gathering spots and greenspaces contribute to the best type of small town vibes.

Craft beer lovers will have a ball at Deadbeat, as well as Gnarly Barley, which has racked up countless regional and national brewing awards. Back downtown, The Red White & Brew is both a carryout wine and beer store and a bar, so you can have a few brews and take some home, too.

As you can plainly see, my modus operandi in Hammond was sip, shop and eat, but there’s additional culture to consume if you visit. Parents will want to take the kids to the Louisiana Children’s Discovery Center, Zemurray Park (which has Dreamland Skate Park, a pool, walking trails and other attractions) and (not too far from downtown) the Safari Quest Family Fun Center with exotic animals and more. Work in lots of nature at Joyce Wildlife Management Area (about 10 miles from downtown) and get your visual and performing arts fix at Hammond Regional Arts Center, the Columbia Theatre for the Performing Arts and Reimers Memorial Theater. Work the Tangipahoa African American Heritage Museum into your itinerary as well, for an enriching learning experience. Last but not least, a walk around Southeastern Louisiana University, depending on the weather, is also a worthwhile endeavor. Perhaps with an ice cream from Eddie’s if you have time to fight your way through the lines.

Restaurants like One Thirteen, a chic American bistro owned by the same local restaurant group as the new Lighthouse Coastal Brasserie and adjacent bar Eclipse, coupled with cute shops like Bayou Booksellers, a bookstore, gift nostalgic candy shop, performing arts venues and proximity to nature make it the perfect place for a weekend getaway.

Like most of my jaunts to quaint towns and cities around the state, my tryst with Hammond was far too short. Each time I stop here, I find something else to add to my to-do list, or I regret not revisiting a fave from the last visit. This go around, I lament not returning to the Mariner’s Inn for a burger on the patio. As usual, I’m already plotting my return with hubby in tow for that burger and also, there’s this cute little historic cottage for sale, and he really must see it.

Location: Hammond

1889
Hammond was chartered in 1889 and is named after Swedish immigrant and settler Peter Hammond. 

13,861
Number of students at Southeastern Louisiana University for the 2025 spring semester. An historic high for the 100-year-old school. 

22,527
As of the 2023 census, Hammond’s population is 22,527, making it the largest city in Tangipahoa Parish.