Unsung Heroes

Sometimes things are hidden in plain sight. And when asked to describe those hidden things, it is always a surprise that someone not from Louisiana knows about them. That is what we will be exploring in these recipes ­— the food that we all eat and love but don’t necessarily promote as part of the food that people think of as Louisiana food.

For example, we eat mirliton. We stuff them, we pickle them and we add them to sauces. During the season, we eat them in every way possible, perhaps even attending a mirliton festival. But this native squash, also known as chayote, is our open secret. Community cookbooks have been written about the mirliton, filled with recipes that use the squash in myriad ways during its season.

In Louisiana we are known for our rice dishes — dirty rice, jambalaya (both Cajun style and Creole style) — but we also have eaten corn from the time before the Europeans arrived. Whether ground, dried corn as in couche couche or maque choux, our roots are in corn.

Hidden Louisiana isn’t hidden from those of us who live here. It has an everydayness about it that is part of the rhythm of our way of eating and our way of life. What is not really intentionally hidden but is perhaps unfamiliar to some people and thus it seems hidden, is the depth of and the rich tapestry of Louisiana food. There aren’t just the famous dishes that everyone mentions like gumbo and jambalaya but layer after layer of dishes that make up the complex web of Louisiana food and foodways. Those of us here get to enjoy every day our treasury of wonderful food.

Mirliton Quick Pickles

10 ripe mirlitons
1 sweet onion, like a Vidalia, sliced thinly
4 quarts apple cider vinegar
1 bay leaf for each jar
½ cup salt
¼ cup sugar
¼ black peppercorns
2 cloves garlic for each jar
1 tablespoon fennel seed for each jar

1. Cut and trim the mirliton squashes by removing the seeds and slicing each squash into 10 to 12 spears depending on their size. Heat the vinegar with an equal amount of water. Add bay leaves, salt, sugar, peppercorns and garlic. Bring to a boil and add the mirliton and onion slices to the hot liquid. Allow to stand for 10 minutes.

2. With tongs, distribute the mirliton slices and onion slices among the jars. Place a bay leaf in each jar. Distribute the peppercorns, garlic and fennel seed.

3. Cap the jars and allow to pickle for 3 days. Besides being a great pickle for potato salads and cole slaw, it also tastes good for burgers and just plain eating. But there is no better garnish for your bloody mary than a mirliton pickle. Makes 7 to 8 quarts

Louisiana Breakfast Grits

This recipe is based on couche couche, leftover cornbread with buttermilk. It is a delicious way to eat cornbread. But you can whip up a batch of grits with buttermilk when the last crumb of cornbread was eaten last night.

3 cups buttermilk and 1 cup water
1½ cups stone ground yellow corn grits
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
Cane syrup for drizzling
Fresh berries or figs to taste
Melted butter (4 tablespoons)

1. Bring buttermilk and water mixture to a simmer. Whisk in grits. Add salt and pepper. Simmer about 20 to 25 minutes and stir with a whisk off and on to keep the grits from sticking to the bottom of the pan.

2. Remove from heat and cover. Serve in a bowl for each person. At the table people can add a drizzle of cane syrup, fresh berries and perhaps a drizzle of melted butter. Serves 4 to 6

Louisiana Satsuma Vinaigrette

This vinaigrette is good on salad, of course, but drizzle it on hot vegetables and you will be giving them a great flavor boost. Stir 2 tablespoons into a cup of sour cream or whole-fat yogurt and you have an easy Louisiana dip for raw veggies.

½ cup fresh satsuma juice
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons Creole mustard
1 tablespoon cane syrup
1 clove of minced garlic
Zest of 1 lemon

1. Add all ingredients to a pint jar. Replace the lid.

2. Shake well until the dressing comes together. Makes a generous cup of dressing

Greens and Pasta

1/8 cup salt
1 pound bitter greens (I recommend either arugula or mustard greens cut into ribbons)
1 pound dry spaghetti
¼ cup olive oil
4 tablespoons melted butter
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. Fill a large pot with water. Stir in salt. When the water reaches a rolling boil add greens and submerge.

2. Return the water to a boil and add spaghetti. Cook according to the package directions. When the pasta is al dente, drain pasta and greens in a colander. Return to the pot. Add oil and butter and toss. Add cheese and toss again. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6

Stewed Chicken

1 4-pound chicken, cut into pieces
Salt and pepper to taste
½ cup flour
1/3 cup olive oil or your fat of choice
1 yellow or white onion, chopped4 cloves garlic, chopped
½ cup olives with pimento
2 bay leaves
1 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons Creole seasoning without salt
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 tablespoon smoked paprika

1. Salt and pepper the chicken then dredge in flour. Heat oil in a pot. When it begins to shimmer, add chicken and brown on all sides. When the chicken is almost cooked, remove and reserve. Add onions and garlic to pot and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add olives and stir. Add bay leaves.

2. Return chicken and juices to the pot. Add wine, Creole seasoning, thyme and 1 cup of water. Stir well. Cover and cook for about 30 minutes.

3. Dust with smoked paprika. Serve with rice. Serves 4 to 6