Artist George Marks Recommend His Go-to Spots in Arnaudville

The first time my husband Mark and I visited Arnaudville we were en route to a weekend in Toledo Bend and could only stop long enough for a brief scenic driveabout and lunch. We made the brilliant decision to go to Myran’s Maison De Manger for crawfish. The staff was so friendly, and the crawfish so flavorful and large, yet easy to crack, we resolved to return — even if it was just to crush more crawfish. It didn’t take long before that promised return. That time, we were in Lafayette for Gulf Brew 2018, and we added a visit to Bayou Teche Brewing to our itinerary. It was a Saturday night, which means live music at the brewery. That evening, the band was Soul Creole (a supergroup of sorts featuring Louis Michot of the Lost Bayou Ramblers and other projects on fiddle, Corey Ledet from Corey Ledet & His Zydeco Band and artist on accordion, musician, author, French radio announcer and teacher Ashlee Wilson on triangle), which of course included Cajun dancing. It was a packed house and everyone from young hipsters to old timers was twirling around the dance floor, often with one another. The evening ended with a tipsy Uber ride (us, not the driver) back to Lafayette — which we chalked up to a miracle, having gotten picked up so late at night and so far away from town. Our driver was a tale-spinning Cajun with a heart of gold and soft spot for exotic dancers. If we weren’t already enchanted by Arnaudville, that magical Louisiana Saturday night sealed the deal. While our usual travel modus operandi, rambling around, is an excellent way to get to know a place — it’s the title and premise of this column after all — whenever possible, it behooves travelers of all levels of experience to rely on the wisdom and inside information of locals. With that in mind, I contacted artist, Nunu Arts and Culture Collective co-founder and executive director and Arnaudville native, George Marks to recommend his go-to spots for our recent return visit to his stomping grounds.

Bayou Teche Brewing has cold beers in the tap room or beer garden, tiki drinks, hot pizza, live music and arcade games. Owned by Karlos Knott, it’s a one-stop shop for fun in Arnaudville.

Naturally, the first item on the agenda was food. “Do dinner at Little Big Cup, not brunch,” said Marks, advising me to make sure and request a table on the back porch to take advantage of the bayou views. For accommodations, Marks suggested Maison Stéphanie (an historic, circa 1796 bed & breakfast situated on 20 acres on the Bayou Teche owned by Richard Franklin Howes and Kenneth P. Douet), or Broussard Cottage, (a modern-style, 200-square-foot tiny home located behind Nunu and in which rental proceeds support the organization). Either way, you can’t go wrong, but people who prefer a more hands-off stay, the latter would be your best bet. If you’re in town on a Saturday morning, Marks says to grab breakfast at Myran’s (specifically the Egg-o-Myran, which has scrambled eggs, chopped ham and cheese) followed by a walk and forest bath at the Acadiana Native Plant Project nature station. (Pro-tip for plant parents: If you are there on a Tuesday, you can propagate.) A fried chicken with fries or tater tots lunch at Knott’s Cajun Kitchen is a must according to Marks, and who are we to argue?

After lunch, a visit to Nunu is in order. On Saturdays you can check out the Indigenous Cultural Heritage table to practice your Kreyol, Indigenous and French language skills with other speakers (all levels are welcome). You’ll work up a powerful thirst after all that talking, so clearly it’s a great time to hit Bayou Teche Brewing. Music starts at 4 p.m., and since our last visit, Cajun Saucer is slinging wood-fired pies and tiki drinks. For pizza, the Alien Autopsy is Marks’ pick. It’s a meat-forward affair topped with andouille, tasso, chaurice and smoked sausages, tomato sauce, mozzarella and candied jalapeños, finished off with a drizzle of roasted garlic olive oil. Vegetarians, don’t worry, there are cheese-forward options for you. Pair your pizza with either the Miel Sauvage, a honey beer, or my favorite, LA 31 Acadie, an exceptional amber farmhouse ale. (I no longer practice the drinking arts, but I still literally have the T-shirt for this beer.)

Nature is easy to access in Arnaudville with Bayou Teche and Bayou Fuselier (perfect for kayaking), plus nature trails at Acadiana Native Plant Project.

You’re probably gonna want to sleep in on Sunday and, if you are staying at Maison Stéphanie, have shrimp and grits or whatever else is on the menu that morning before proceeding back to Nunu for The People Library day (from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.), which Marks describes as an intergenerational knowledge exchange where people can share expertise, learn from each other and meet others in the community. Topics include folklife, creative placemaking/placekeeping, sustainability and entrepreneurship (appointments are required). You can also pick up a plate lunch at nearby Russell’s Food Center and connect with people at the community cafe. “It’s like going to your grandparents’ to pass the afternoon,” says Marks. “You get to meet interesting people with interesting stories to tell. It’s really special.”

If thrifting is your idea of a good time, Marks says to make time for a side quest to Sunset either on your way to Arnaudville or on the way home. Also, on your way out of town, if you traveled from the direction of New Orleans, Marks recommends stopping at Crawfish Town USA off of Interstate 49. But for us, it’s a return to Myran’s  — especially if it’s crawfish season — because sometimes, in life and in travel, it’s all about going full circle.

Location | St. Francisville

0.7 square miles – total area of land in Arnaudville

125 Bayou Teche is 125 miles long and runs through four parishes: St. Landry, St. Martin, Iberia and St. Mary.

1700s Arnaudville’s roots trace back to its origin as an Attakapas Indian village site. It was settled by the French in the late 18th century and named La Murière. The town is also known as La Jonction (The Junction), due to being at the intersection of Bayou Fusilier and Bayou Teche. Finally, in the 1900s, it was renamed Arnaudville, after the Arnaud family, which donated a significant amount of land to the town and established a church.