Capital Views of the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge

There are four things I always do when I’m in Baton Rouge: Visit the LSU Museum of Art at the Shaw Center for the Arts, get coffee at The Vintage, take a walk on the Louisiana State Capitol Grounds and eat at Cocha. These are the non-negotiables, for reasons I’ll soon elaborate upon, but there are, of course, plenty of other things to do in the Red Stick — it’s the state capital after all and it is steeped in history.

Bars, cafes, greenspaces, museums and historic homes and buildings abound in downtown Baton Rouge. The downtown area is walkable and perfect for a weekend road trip.

Before French settlers converged upon the area in 1699 and named it Baton Rouge — after the red posts used by Native Americans to mark tribal boundaries — it was home to the Bayougoula and Houma tribes. Conflicts with European traders and other tribes ultimately pushed the Houma peoples, known for fishing, trapping and their traditional crafts, particularly palmetto basketry, down the Mississippi River to settle in Terrebonne, Lafourche and other coastal parishes. (Worthy of note: The United Houma Nation was recognized in Louisiana in 1972, but is still seeking federal recognition.) Downtown’s Capitol Park Museum explores the traditions of Chitimacha, Houma and other tribes in various exhibits and is worth a visit while you are in town. Seven flags have flown over Baton Rouge (French, Spanish, West Florida Republic, British, Confederate States of America, United States of America and, of course, Louisiana) and  it would be 118 years before the city was incorporated, then 1849 before it became the state capital. Capitol Park Museum covers all this and more, so history buffs won’t want to miss it.

If all that history made you thirsty, you are very much in luck, because downtown has a bounty of coffee shops, bars and restaurants. Proximity to the Louisiana State University Campus (about 2.5 miles) means yes, there are a lot of college bars, but grown folks can enjoy grown-up drinks at places like The Vintage (as mentioned above), which specializes in coffee beverages and beignets, as well as Champagne and cocktails. Additional options include Blend Wine Bar and The Main Lobby. My husband would call all of the above bougie, and he’s probably right, so if you prefer hyper-casual vibes, he recommends Happy’’s Irish Pub. Whether you are in town on business, a road trip for a wedding or to root for the LSU Tigers, there’s a bar for you. If you are visiting for a game though, you’ll probably want to go to The Chimes, over by campus, for a large selection of draft beer and all the pub food your heart desires.

If you get over to campus early enough, spend some time at University Lakes (also known as LSU Lakes) for a walk, run, biking or fishing. Outdoors types will also want to hop in the car for a 15-minute drive northeast of downtown to Bluebonnet Swamp Nature Center. This free, 103-acre conservation and recreation area features gravel paths and boardwalks winding through a variety of habitats, including hardwood forests, cypress-tupelo swamp and beech-magnolia. Birders will thrill at the hundreds of species that inhabit and migrate to the nature center throughout the year. In the 9,500-square-foot exhibit building, see live animals, artifacts and rotating ecology and art exhibits.

Back downtown, tour the plethora of museums within walking distance to one another, including the Baton Rouge African American Museum; Louisiana Art & Science Museum; Louisiana’s Old State Capitol; not to be confused with the Louisiana State Capitol (and again, take time to tour the beautiful, park-like grounds); Louisiana’s Old Governor’s Mansion; Old Arsenal Museum; the Robert A. Bogan Baton Rouge Fire Museum; and the USS KIDD Veterans Museum. My personal favorite, however, is the LSU Museum of Art at the Shaw Center for the Arts. The permanent collection includes a comprehensive cache of decorative and fine arts from Louisiana, national and international artisans and artists, while the rotating exhibits are always thoughtful and impressive. The exhibit, “Daphnis and Chloe and Other Lovers: Lithographs by Marc Chagall” is on view through May 24 and worth much more than the $5 price of admission, but if you go on a Sunday, it’s free.

Now, there are plenty of places to eat downtown, but I’m going to leave you with my favorite, Cocha, because in my opinion, it’s the best choice. Go for lunch and dinner during the week and weekends with brunch also in the mix on Saturday and Sunday. There’s something for everyone including vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options, as well as delightfully presented and delicious full- and zero-proof cocktails. The menu is chock full of local, seasonal, sustainable fare with global flavors and flair. Venezuelan corn cakes, St. Louis ribs and sous-vide and grilled octopus all make sense when you are seated at the table with a cocktail or glass of wine in hand. Sip and savor to satisfaction.

At the end of the day, if you’ve done yourself a favor and booked a room at the Watermark or the Historic Hilton Baton Rouge Capitol Center, you’ll have an incredible night’s sleep and be ready to paint the Red Stick red again the next day.

Location
Baton Rouge

1699
French soldier, explorer and trader Pierre Le Moyne d’Iberville first visited the area now known as Baton Rouge and is credited with coining the name, which translates to “Red Stick.”

1849
Baton Rouge becomes the state capital of Louisiana.

1972
The United Houma Nation is recognized in Louisiana.